The Spanish Costa Brava is a hidden gem, a place that has remained under the radar despite its rich history and stunning natural beauty. While other Costas have become overdeveloped and touristy, the Baix Emporda region has quietly maintained its charm and character, attracting a new wave of visitors seeking a more authentic and laid-back experience. This article explores the region's unique appeal, offering an expert guide to the best things to see and do, as well as some personal insights and commentary on what makes this place so special.
A Region Rediscovered
The Costa Brava has long been a place of intrigue and fascination, with its dramatic coastline and picturesque villages. However, it was the pandemic that sparked a renewed interest in this hidden treasure. Younger Barcelona dwellers, in particular, have rediscovered the region, seeking a break from the city and a return to nature. The area's proximity to Barcelona, its mild climate, and its rich cultural heritage have made it an ideal destination for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of city life.
One of the key factors that sets the Costa Brava apart from other popular Costas is its ability to retain its old-fashioned charm while embracing modern amenities. The region's hotels and restaurants, many of which date back to the 1950s, exude a sense of nostalgia and tradition, while new establishments cater to the needs of contemporary travelers. This unique blend of old and new is what makes the Costa Brava so captivating and appealing to a wide range of visitors.
Exploring the Coastline
The Camí de Ronda is a must-do for anyone visiting the Costa Brava. This walking trail hugs the coastline, offering breathtaking views of the pine-scented cliffs and hidden coves. Some stretches are gentle and accessible, while others are more challenging, providing an adventure for those seeking a more active experience. The route was originally used by 19th-century police to spy on smugglers, adding a layer of intrigue to the already captivating landscape.
For those who prefer a more relaxed pace, the wild, grey beach of Platja Fonda and the popular Aigua Blava are perfect for easy strolls. The gravelly garden at Hostal Sa Rascassa provides a delightful shady spot for lunch, while the terraces of tables at Cap Sa Sal offer a romantic setting with a view of the Mediterranean that is truly bewitching at night.
Exploring the area by boat is another fantastic way to discover the Costa Brava's hidden gems. The waters between Platja del Ráco and Calella are filled with cool hidden caves and secluded coves, such as Cala Pedrosa, which is home to a tiny seasonal chiringuito serving fresh, just-caught fish. Hiring a boat at Llafranc beach or from Aigua Blava Boats is a great way to experience the region from a different perspective.
A Town Built on Merchant Fortunes
Begur, a town located inland from the coast, is a fascinating place to explore. Built on the fortunes of 19th-century merchants returning from Cuba, the town's brightly-painted houses still give it a rather exotic look. The lively plazas are the perfect spot for evening drinks, and the ruined castle offers breathtaking views across the rooftops and out to sea.
A Day Trip to Dali's Childhood Haven
Cadaqués, a seaside town located further north, was Salvador Dali's childhood holiday destination. The town's whitewashed streets, embellished in jewel-colored shutters, are a delight to explore. A day trip to Cadaqués is a must for art lovers, and the nearby Port Lligat, where Dali later moved, offers a chance to visit his house and immerse oneself in his world.
Dining and Drinking Experiences
The Costa Brava is a foodie's paradise, with a range of restaurants and bars offering fresh, local produce and a vibrant atmosphere. Toc al Mar, located on the beach at Aigua Blava, is a popular spot for fresh fish and crisp, white wine, while Hostal Sa Rascassa provides a delightful shady spot for lunch with excellent food, including goats' cheese salad and squid ink spaghetti.
For evening drinks, the chiringuitos that line the area's best beaches are a must-visit. Ultra Mar, located on the golden sand of Platja del Ráco, is the most romantic spot for a gin and tonic, while C-Roak in Begur offers live music in a little courtyard garden. Mas Sorrer, located inland, is another popular spot for live music and festivals from June to September.
Shopping and Wellness Breaks
The Costa Brava is also a great place to shop, with a range of boutiques and workshops offering unique, locally-made products. The medieval village of Pals is a gentle browsing experience, with immaculately-kept lanes scattered with jewellers, clothing, and souvenir shops. The Tuesday market is a great place to pick up locally-made honey and freshly-baked bread.
For those seeking a wellness break, Camiral Health & Wellness is a fantastic option. Located a little way from the coast, it offers a huge wellness center and golf course, and will host the Ryder Cup in 2031. The region's boutique hotels, such as Alta House and La Bionda, also offer a range of amenities and services, making them ideal for those seeking a relaxing and indulgent getaway.
Getting There
The nearest airport to the Costa Brava is Girona, with flights from Tui and other operators. Barcelona has cheaper fares and is more easily accessible, with a multitude of operators, including BA, Easyjet, and Vueling. Hiring a car at the airport is a great way to explore the region at your own pace.
In conclusion, the Costa Brava is a hidden gem that offers a unique blend of history, natural beauty, and modern amenities. The region's ability to retain its old-fashioned charm while embracing new developments makes it a captivating destination for travelers seeking an authentic and laid-back experience. Whether you're exploring the coastline, dining at a local restaurant, or shopping for unique souvenirs, the Costa Brava has something for everyone. So why not pack your bags and discover this hidden treasure for yourself?
